PART OF THE MAGIC OF BAAN LAO is that it feels entirely out of place. Tucked away in Steveston — a quaint, historic fishing village in Richmond, B.C. — the high-end Royal Thai restaurant seems rather better suited to Vancouver’s swanky Yaletown or business-centric Coal Harbour. But that, really, is the point.
It’s about a 35-minute drive from Vancouver to Steveston, and with every minute that passes, the stresses of the big city seem to fade, giving way to literal and metaphorical space: There aren’t massive high-rises in Steveston, nor are there mountains framing the distance. Instead, the landscape stretches out to the mouth of the Fraser River, and it’s here that Baan Lao — which means “our home” in Thai — has made its mark among the storybook-like streets (not an understatement: The neighbourhood was the filming location for fairy-tale drama series Once Upon a Time).
Perched right on the river, Baan Lao’s room is bright, clean and calm, with white walls, high ceilings and giant windows that show off views of the water. The service is attentive, with white-gloved staff opening the large doors to welcome guests, then swiftly taking their coats and whisking them to their tables. An evening meal begins with a warm lemongrass-scented hand towel, which instantly awakens the senses for the fun that’s to come.
The menu, by Thai chef Nutcha Phanthoupheng, is a thoughtful, articulate and deeply creative journey.
A recent multi-course meal included an amuse-bouche of crispy golden pastry with catfish and sour mango; Thai herb–infused coconut soup with truffle pearls and edible flower petals; and a standout green curry with blue crab, thick vermicelli, fresh cabbage and a fried wild pepper leaf. The drinks menu is just as considered, with pairing options ranging from wine to cocktails, to no- or low-alcohol cocktails, to tea (both caffeinated and herbal). Ingredients are sourced from around the world, with an obvious focus on both Thailand and British Columbia. Rice comes from Phanthoupheng’s family farm, located in the region of Isaan.
The service is as pristine as the food. The staff is attentive and polite, but never stuffy or pretentious. They breezily remember guests from previous visits, chatting affably and presenting each course with a dignified sense of pride. And why shouldn’t they? Baan Lao is almost single-handedly turning Steveston into a foodie destination.
—SARA HAROWITZ
