An evening at this neo-speakeasy, hidden in the faded grandeur of Montreal’s Golden Square Mile, is a veritable choose-yourown adventure. And so: you wait in a wood-panelled lobby until the hostess appears from a hidden door. You walk down a dimly lit hallway lined with photos of Steve McQueen and other tough-guy fashion icons. Next maybe you take a seat in a candlelit, 25-person room. You tell the bartender your base alcohol of choice and whether you’re looking for something bitter or sweet, spirit-forward or refreshing. A few minutes later, you’re enjoying a bespoke cocktail that’s sure to be your new favourite tipple. Until whatever you think up next.

TRY: A NEGRONI MADE WITH VINTAGE CAMPARI FROM THE 1950S.Photo: BEN TURCOTTE