The main room is properly sumptuous, but the mid-room bar is the draw — a half dozen seats served attentively by nattily attired tenders. Craig Harding and Julian D’Ippolito enjoy putting new spins on the classics — from lobster fra diavola and spaghetti all’amatriciana to a scallop Rockefeller and swordfish picatta. The atmosphere is old-world and comforting.