As this restaurant celebrates its 30th anniversary in 2025, its self-described mission of “haute Canadiana” remains as relevant and exciting as ever. Newly appointed chef de cuisine Roderick Tomiczek (ex-Langdon Hall) shares his predecessors’ resolute commitment to Canadian terroir, be it farmed, foraged or fished. The rhythms of the seasons are always beautifully expressed on a Canoe menu. Springtime is announced with halibut, and then spot prawns from B.C., followed by East Coast lobster and the rest of summer’s bounty. In winter the constantly evolving seafood tower remains a local benchmark, and an ideal prelude to the kitchen’s signature farmed game. Old-school classics are deftly referenced and reinterpreted. As with a savoury riff on tarte Tatin that features braised veal shank and sausage wrapped in collard greens and served atop a disc of puff pastry; on the side, a rosemary sprig skewers a cube of veal tongue, crispy sweetbreads and mushroom. Desserts are just as polished. The dining room is sleek and elegant. The bar and its lounge provide the best casual setting, while the tasting bar overlooking the open kitchen is the ultimate spot for culinary voyeurs. Yet most diners still posit that best seats are window-side, where 54 floors up the TD Bank Tower, the views of the city and Lake Ontario are hard to beat.

CANADIAN cuisine at an EXCEPTIONALLY high level. Dino Renaerts