Alexandre Perron

Alexandre Perron spends a lot of time in an old elevator shaft. That’s where Montréal Plaza cellars its wine.

Perron joined the restaurant eight years ago, inheriting a wine program created by ex-Toqué! sommelier Samuel Chevalier-Savaria. “At the time,” recalls Perron, “many sommeliers in Montreal felt they had to pick a side, either fill their lists with natural wines or stick to traditional, prestige labels. Plaza was unusual in finding a balance between both. It’s still part of our DNA — keep up with the exciting new trends in the market but also stay grounded with names that have been important for generations.”

Today, that open-minded approach allows Perron to pour an orange wine from Romania by the glass or open a bottle from Tenerife as the perfect match for the restaurant’s beloved whelks with miso butter. But the real strengths of the carte reflect Perron’s personal love of wines from the Loire, Champagne and Burgundy, with an impressive diversity of styles from each region — and notably friendly prices. Burgundy connoisseurs in particular are drawn by the low markups at the deep end of the list. “You need to be dynamic in today’s economy,” says Perron. “We have to sell our elite wines, so we can go on buying more and keep our place in Montreal’s very competitive allocation landscape.”

Purchasing is a serious business, but service needn’t be, especially in a restaurant famous for the whimsical vibe that chef-owners Charles-Antoine Crête and Cheryl Johnson bring to the décor and to their plates. Once, when a guest ordered a prized bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Perron dressed up in a banana costume to bring it to the table. His explanation: “We try not to be too pompous.”

–James Chatto