Mandel Hitzer’s imaginative cooking leads diners in a host of unexpected directions, one as satisfying as the next. Local products (and their accompanying stories) get their time in the spotlight, but with a supporting cast of international delicacies. So, expect Winnipeg goldeye (smoked, on a latke with crème fraîche and whitefish caviar) as well as sidestripe prawns from B.C. A dish of slow-baked beets and tuna is paired with horseradish emulsion and ginger-soy dressing, and charcoal-grilled lobster is served with fermented blueberry. The culinary thinking is assertively international — pierogies, sure, but also French-inspired steelhead en brioche, sauced with manzanilla and yuzu kosho, or an amuse-bouche of chicken liver and apple gelée, served on a “Boreal Crisp.” Hitzer is clearly having fun — and it works for everyone. The mash-up continues with a dessert of “Burnt Toast” malted ice cream, raisin and walnut tart, and Delice de Bourgogne. Choose the dining room for the four-course prix fixe or opt for the à la carte menu at the bar (there is overlap in choices). The wine program looks to small producers and uncommon grape varieties and includes a pairing to complement the prix fixe. The space — punctuated by warm wood accents, bright artworks and soft lighting — is intimate and stylish, and the mood indulgent and convivial.