Twenty years in, founding partners Fred Morin and Allison Cunningham have kept this institution well on track. Its personality remains oversized, the exuberant joie de vivre contagious. The recently made-over dining room is still full of bric-a-brac, a nod to the antiques shops that used to line the street. The unpretentious old-school cuisine is Lyonnaise-inspired, but, as Morin notes, “with a Boston oyster bar and a Berkeley, California, garden.” A Québécois sense of indulgence pervades everything. Executive chef Jean-Philippe Miron presides over a menu that is hearty and luxurious with Felix Alary, who assumed the chef de cuisine role in 2024. Perennial favourite lobster spaghetti combines lobster fumet, lardons and brandy-infused cream. A guest favourite from the beginning, ouef en gelée — with Madeira jelly, jambon blanc and black truffles — sells out every time it’s on. Lidded casseroles — say, duck à la royale — are presented with a flourish. Choices are clever and compelling — think beef tongue scattered with herbs in a pool of jus; frogs’ legs and pâté. In summer, expect lighter fare like wild striped bass or charcoal-grilled young halibut from the Gaspé. Desserts range from the classic layered marjolaine to an upside-down orange olive-oil cake topped with a Creamsicle. Wine director Max Campbell and sommelier Laura Piasek embrace worlds old, new and emerging, with Quebec vintners playing an increasingly large role.