Following a major renovation last year and equipped with a new minimalist décor highlighting natural materials, Mastard remains as convivial as ever. Exceptional cooking from Simon Mathys combined with welcoming service from his partner, Viki Brisson-Sylvestre, make the place all but irresistible. It succeeds both as a beloved neighbourhood spot and as a destination restaurant. Mastard in Quebec implies big and strong, and here the food follows suit, with bold yet elegant flavours rooted in Quebec terroir. Dishes are product-driven, seasonal, hyper-imaginative and unfailingly delicious. Consider a slice of ruby-red tomato from Ferme des Quatre-Temps with smoked beef fat and finished with camelina oil and verjus. Or the enduring guest favourite and house classic lettuce tart — pâte brisée filled with a mousse of local gem lettuce, served with an herb sauce. Meatier and more robust dishes might be duck sausage with an emulsion of smoked egg yolk, and meat jus; or guinea fowl with foie gras terrine, mustard sabayon and braised endive. The five-course tasting menu is an ever-evolving reflection of the best of local product. Thoughtfully paired wine flights — four or five pours — lean natural, and cocktails embrace Quebec spirits.

I DREAM about chef’s silky SAVOURY tarts. Ivy Lerner-Frank