Settle in at a table for two or at the long, busy bar and, at first, all seems normal. The mood is joyous, and the design — by local superstar Zébulon Perron — is as contemporary and appealing today as it was the day Plaza opened in 2015. But hang on a moment — what’s Elmo doing seated at the bar? And why are all those plastic triceratops gathered on the pass? They are serving dinosaurs, obviously — vessels for some manner of tartare de pétoncles. Plaza co-chefs and co-owners Charles-Antoine Crête and Cheryl Johnson are committed to having fun, but they also share unassailable credentials and an intense commitment to quality. Crête is an improvisational virtuoso; Johnson provides an enabling balance. Together they push boundaries, leaning on French tradition while embracing Japanese. Classics like whelks with miso butter and milk bread have, by popular demand, lingered on the menu since day one. So too has the ever-changing fish on the plancha, recently served with guanciale, capers and lemon. Local and seasonal ingredients are always at the fore. Melon + Bleu is a dish of cantaloupe, watermelon, Bleu d’Élizabeth and black walnuts. The tasting menu here was never part of the original plan; it was introduced in response to customer demand. Ever since, it’s been the most popular way to dine.

Always MEMORABLE. Vanya Filipovic