Everything at this sleek and attractively curvaceous restaurant points to the grill — 10 metres of open fire fuelled by wood and charcoal. For many a contemporary chef, the set-up is a fantasy playground. Still, open-fire cooking requires much discipline and experience. Fortunately, chef Steven Molnar and his team are up to the challenge. Seven years in, the dining experience here has emphatically never been better. It begins, logically, with flavourful, aromatic and correctly elastic tortillas, made daily from imported Mexican corn nixtamalized and double-ground on-site. Ceviches and aguachiles are bright and refreshing, texturally complex and well balanced. Carne cruda — a nod to Veracruz — is AAA Ontario flat iron, hand-cut and dressed with olives, fried capers, toasted sesame seeds and guajillo chili oil. Gindara is B.C. black cod marinated in salsa verde, grilled over fire and served with charred caraflex cabbage, finger lime and mole blanco made from hazelnuts, parsnips, garlic, onion and serrano chilies. Even vegetarian dishes crackle with flavour. Desserts are finessed and imaginative (tres leches cake and horchata cream meet sea buckthorn). The room is boisterous and the atmosphere vibrant. Service is highly professional. Thoughtful non-alcoholic beverage options encompass homemade libations, mocktails and reimaginings of Mexican drinks and old classics. The wine list is solid and rich in smart choices to match big flavours, but sometimes the excellent cocktails seem best poised to complement the smoke and spice. A Mexican Pharmacy, anyone?

Molnar is technical, SMART and CURIOUS in his approach. Mijune Pak