St. Lawrence

Best Restaurants 2025 No. 12

Although St. Lawrence has been a runaway success since opening in 2017, chef-owner J-C Poirier continually seeks new ways to present his exceptional Québécois and classical French cuisine. There have been menus based in different regional French cuisines and seven-course menus dégustations. In February, fans of Québécois country cooking can enjoy a proper cabane à sucre menu — featuring unusually refined versions of cretons, fèves au lard and tourtière. And now, with Ashley Kurtz back on the pass, the tasting menus have evolved to four-course tables d’hôte, putting choice back in the hands of the customer. Dishes change frequently so as to feature the best available ingredients, mostly from small B.C.-based purveyors. In spring and summer, the likes of lamb, fava beans, asparagus and rhubarb enjoy the spotlight. Expect delicate fresh pasta, say, stuffed with Tomme de Savoie, peas and onion broth. And, for dessert, maple St-Honoré. The room is small and handsomely appointed, its vibe enhanced with the convivial front bar and a semi-open kitchen.

Energetic, PLAYFUL and precise. Daniel Hadida

David Lawson’s wine list continues to offer a revelatory selection of low-intervention and biodynamic bottles. For those who prefer to pass on the alcohol, the restaurant has also developed one of Vancouver’s most creative zero-proof beverage menus, including concoctions that help reduce kitchen waste — such as non-alcoholic gin with lemon and fennel juice, pressed from stalks that used to go in the compost bin. That’s right: The latest twist at St. Lawrence is that you can now enjoy dinner here feeling positively virtuous.