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Features

A Cross-Cultural holiday feast

Dec. 17 2025


As with his latest restaurant, Zach Kolomeir’s Christmas meal communicates in Italian — with an intriguing Jewish accent.


Chef Zach Kolomeir knows that a classic Christmas dinner isn’t usually peppered with tributes to Jewish culture, but he also doesn’t much care. It’s the same at his latest hit restaurant, N.L. Ginzburg. From the name on the door — for the wartime Jewish-Italian writer and activist Natalia Levi Ginzburg — to his Tuscan chicken-liver crostini topped with the deli-inspired chopped-liver-style topping of crispy-fried onions, the restaurant conveys a combination of inspirations. His Christmas menu does the same, blending his Jewish roots with traditions that his wife, Carmelina Imola, grew up with. Which for the duo is the most natural way to approach one doozy of a festive meal – which they enjoy with immediate family and whichever close friends are available on the day.

The Kolomeir family: Zach, Lucia and Carmelina Imola.


Of his holiday menu, Kolomeir notes: “There are always little Jewy nods because of me not growing up in a traditional Roman Catholic household.” Usually the meal centres on the kind of Italo-Jewish dishes he’ll serve at N.L. Ginzburg, which might be unfamiliar to diners. “There’s a major disconnect between what people’s conceptions are of Italian food and what Italians actually make in their home,” he explains. “With Ginzburg, that was the biggest thing that we were trying to put forward.”

The family travels to a different part of Italy at least once a year. “There’s a very deep and historical Jewish culture rooted in, especially, the large cities, in Italy, Milano, Firenze, Roma, even Venice. I think they bring their own kind of thing to the neighbourhoods in which they live.”

It’s just a tradition in our household to have many people over Chef Zach Kolomeir

That style of cooking makes for a very distinct holiday dinner that’s rustic, homey and celebratory in its staunch connection to the past. In this year’s iteration, that translates to plates of toasted sesame bread spread with whorls of whipped salt cod, ruby-hued shepherd peppers cradling morsels of hot-smoked trout and fresh tagliolini tossed with silken, sherry-soused chicken livers. As with most jolly Christmas spreads, this one also involves a burnished bird and fruit-filled dessert. Here, it’s whole, crisp-skinned Pekin duck dressed with juniper, pancetta and grappa, and ricotta cheesecake doused with a vibrant and puckery preserve of summer fruit.

Used to the frenetic energy of professional kitchens, Kolomeir and Imola look forward to a full house on Christmas Day. “It’s just a tradition in our household to have many people over,” he explains. “We cook together. She’s not a chef but we do this meal together. Carm really is the driving force behind the evening.” Though the menu never veers from its origins, individual dishes are swapped out based on the couple’s cravings du jour. “I think it’s fun for all the guests to come and be like, ‘Wow! This is cool.’”

Recipes


Antipasti


Baccalà Mantecato with Sweet Pickles on Sesame Bread

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS

  • 500 g (1 lb) salt cod*
  • 250 ml (1 cup) whole milk
  • 250 ml (1 cup) olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic
  • zest of 1 lemon

To Serve

  • sesame breadsweet pickled onions

METHOD
Rinse salt cod in cool water. Place in a large non-reactive dish and cover with cold water. Transfer to refrigerator to soak for 48 hours, changing the water every 12 hours. When the fish is ready, combine milk with 250 ml (1 cup) water in a medium saucepan on medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer and add salt cod. (The fish should be completely immersed; if not add more milk and water to cover). Poach until fish is opaque and flakes easily — about 20 minutes. Remove fish from saucepan, reserving liquid. Remove bones and skin. Transfer fish to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. With the mixer running, drizzle in the olive oil. Add some of the hot poaching liquid, mixing until mixture is emulsified. Grate garlic into bowl and add lemon zest. Stir to combine. Transfer to a serving bowl. Serve salt cod spread over toasted sesame bread, garnish with sweet pickled onions.

*For a smoother texture, use 500 g (1 lb) fresh cod. Salt heavily and transfer to refrigerator overnight. Then, omit soaking and simply rinse well before cooking.


Sweet Peppers and Smoked Trout Involtini

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS
Trout

  • 40 g (2 tbsp) salt
  • 20 g (1 tbsp) sugar
  • 1 large trout* fillet, about 400 g
  • (14 oz) olive oil

Peppers

  • 8 shepherd peppers

METHOD
In a small bowl, combine salt and sugar. Place trout on a baking tray lined with plastic wrap. Rub with cure. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next day, rinse trout and pat dry. Heat hot smoker box (or one side of your barbecue grill) to 105C (225F). Hot-smoke fish until it reaches an internal temperature of 62C (145F). (If you are doing this on your outdoor grill, add wood chips to the hot side and cook fish on the cool side, covered.) Set fish aside to cool, then shred, discarding skin and bones. Place in an airtight container and drizzle with olive oil to keep moist.

Preheat oven to 190C (375F). Place peppers in an oven-safe dish and roast for 20 to 25 minutes until fully cooked and pliable. Once the peppers have cooled, pull off stem caps, peel and deseed, then lay flat on a tray, keeping them as whole as possible.

To assemble, spoon 50 g (3 oz) of trout into each pepper and roll up. Serve the peppers over a creamy vinaigrette (emulsified with egg yolk) enhanced with chopped olives, capers, shallots, oregano and celery leaves.

*You may also use top-quality store-bought smoked trout, such as the organically raised trout from Kolapore Springs hatchery in Grey County, Ontario.


Primi


Fresh Tagliolini with Chicken Livers and Sherry

Serves 8 as a starter

INGREDIENTS
Trout

  • 250 g (½ lb) chicken livers
  • 10 ml (2 tsp) olive oil
  • 3 g (1 tbsp) chopped rosemary
  • salt and coarsely ground black pepper
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 120 ml (½ cup) white wine
  • 120 ml (½ cup) chicken stock
  • 600 g (1⅓ lb) fresh (not dried) tagliolini
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) sherry

METHOD
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil on high. Chop chicken livers to make a rough paste. Heat 5 ml (1 tsp) of olive oil in a medium saucepan on medium-high. Season livers liberally with rosemary, salt and pepper. Add livers to hot pan and sauté for 45 seconds before adding garlic.

Deglaze with white wine, bring to a boil and reduce. Add stock and stir to create a nice creamy sauce. Boil pasta for 1 minute. Drain and transfer to saucepan with liver sauce. Toss and mix well. Serve on individual plates and drizzle with sherry and remaining olive oil.


Secondi


Roast Duck with Juniper and Grappa

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

  • 225 g (8 oz) pancetta, diced
  • 200 ml (7 fl oz) grappa
  • 1 bunch sage leaves, picked and chopped
  • 20g (3 tbsp) juniper berries, crushed
  • 1 Pekin duck, deboned
  • 200 ml (¾ cup) white wine
  • salt and pepper
  • canola or other neutral cooking oil
  • 1 lemon, juice only

METHOD
Preheat oven to 205C (400F).

In a small bowl, combine pancetta, 175 ml (6 oz) of the grappa, and the sage and juniper. Set aside to steep. Remove drumsticks and wing flats from the duck (reserve for stock, if desired) and debone, leaving only the two drumette bones in place. Transfer duck to a work surface, skin-side down. Rub the flesh side with the wine, avoiding the skin as much as possible. Season flesh side with salt and pepper. Heat a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan or roasting dish over medium-low heat and lubricate with oil. Add the duck, skin-side down, and cook until the fat renders and the skin is bronzed and crisp — 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer duck to a work surface, skin-side up. Pour off ⅔ of the rendered fat from the pan (reserve for another purpose, if desired). Add the pancetta mixture to the pan and cook slowly over low heat for 30 seconds. Place the duck back in the pan, skin-side up. Transfer to the oven and cook for 20 minutes until the duck reaches an internal temperature of 50C (122F). Transfer duck to the countertop and let rest in the pan for 25 minutes. Transfer duck to a cutting board. Halve lengthwise and separate thighs from breasts. Slice each thinly, against the grain. Arrange slices on a platter. Bring pancetta mixture and drippings to a simmer on medium heat. Stir in lemon juice and remaining grappa. Spoon over the duck and serve.

– Christine Peddie

Photography by Daniel Neuhaus


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