As with his latest restaurant, Zach Kolomeir’s Christmas meal communicates in Italian — with an intriguing Jewish accent.
Chef Zach Kolomeir knows that a classic Christmas dinner isn’t usually peppered with tributes to Jewish culture, but he also doesn’t much care. It’s the same at his latest hit restaurant, N.L. Ginzburg. From the name on the door — for the wartime Jewish-Italian writer and activist Natalia Levi Ginzburg — to his Tuscan chicken-liver crostini topped with the deli-inspired chopped-liver-style topping of crispy-fried onions, the restaurant conveys a combination of inspirations. His Christmas menu does the same, blending his Jewish roots with traditions that his wife, Carmelina Imola, grew up with. Which for the duo is the most natural way to approach one doozy of a festive meal – which they enjoy with immediate family and whichever close friends are available on the day.

Of his holiday menu, Kolomeir notes: “There are always little Jewy nods because of me not growing up in a traditional Roman Catholic household.” Usually the meal centres on the kind of Italo-Jewish dishes he’ll serve at N.L. Ginzburg, which might be unfamiliar to diners. “There’s a major disconnect between what people’s conceptions are of Italian food and what Italians actually make in their home,” he explains. “With Ginzburg, that was the biggest thing that we were trying to put forward.”
The family travels to a different part of Italy at least once a year. “There’s a very deep and historical Jewish culture rooted in, especially, the large cities, in Italy, Milano, Firenze, Roma, even Venice. I think they bring their own kind of thing to the neighbourhoods in which they live.”

It’s just a tradition in our household to have many people over Chef Zach Kolomeir
That style of cooking makes for a very distinct holiday dinner that’s rustic, homey and celebratory in its staunch connection to the past. In this year’s iteration, that translates to plates of toasted sesame bread spread with whorls of whipped salt cod, ruby-hued shepherd peppers cradling morsels of hot-smoked trout and fresh tagliolini tossed with silken, sherry-soused chicken livers. As with most jolly Christmas spreads, this one also involves a burnished bird and fruit-filled dessert. Here, it’s whole, crisp-skinned Pekin duck dressed with juniper, pancetta and grappa, and ricotta cheesecake doused with a vibrant and puckery preserve of summer fruit.
Chef Kolomeir doling out tagliolini with chicken liver.
Lucia Kolomeir likes pasta.
The bar at N.L. Ginzburg.
Used to the frenetic energy of professional kitchens, Kolomeir and Imola look forward to a full house on Christmas Day. “It’s just a tradition in our household to have many people over,” he explains. “We cook together. She’s not a chef but we do this meal together. Carm really is the driving force behind the evening.” Though the menu never veers from its origins, individual dishes are swapped out based on the couple’s cravings du jour. “I think it’s fun for all the guests to come and be like, ‘Wow! This is cool.’”
Recipes
Antipasti


Primi

Secondi

– Christine Peddie





