The culinary scene — and magnificent scenery — made it difficult to leave.
18,860 steps. That was day 1 in Athens, which started after too little sleep with a mad dash to meet our guide for a walking tour of the Acropolis. Then the Agora, the Temple of Hephaestus, the Acropolis Museum, the Varvakios Central Municipal Market, the 11th-century Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, and so much more. No wonder the souvlaki platter I ordered for lunch off Ermou Street that looked fitting for a family of six disappeared so swiftly.
Enough words have been spilled over the beauty of the Acropolis that I have no aspirations to contribute to the oeuvre here. But I will say that the way it looms in the distance over all central Athenian activities is life-affirming. It lent unexpected purpose and meaning to afternoon drinks on the rooftop of the splendid Dolli hotel (highly recommended), and even to late-night drinks among the hostel types that crowd the other nearby rooftop bars (not for everyone).
After three full days in Athens, it was time for rest and tranquility, and we found that in glorious excess on Sifnos, an island rightfully touted for its magnificent scenery and great culinary scene (the local pottery a bonus). It was difficult to leave. So en route back to Athens International, we took a planned pause to ease the transition back to city life with a halfway stop on the happening Athens Riviera. A good call.
↗ Where to Eat
In Athens
Travolta
If your idea of a perfect Greek meal revolves around impeccable fish and seafood simply prepared, head over to this gem in the quiet suburb of Peristeri. You will be invited to the kitchen to peer in the fridge and choose your fish. We started with a literally perfect Greek salad and a creamy, luscious tarama (fish roe) dip. Next, sea bream carpaccio with urchin, grilled skewers of calamari tossed in their ink, seared fillets of red mullet and, to finish, kiounefe with kaimaki ice cream. Bliss.
Pharaoh
The idea of a sleek, groovy setting plus the 400-vintage-strong natural-wine list and a vinyl-spinning DJ firing tunes too cool for even Shazam to recognize might at first seem clichéd. Not when you add to the mix noted local chef Manolis Papoutsakis serving up ultra-traditional seasonal Greek fare — mullet crudo with blackberries and mint; grilled lamb chops; rabbit with lemon sauce and fried potatoes — from a kitchen with just wood fire (and no electricity). Altogether, a great concept that succeeds admirably.
Manári Taverna
This good-looking and enormously popular new (well, 2024) taverna of chef and entrepreneur Aris Vezene usually has space for walk-ins at the stainless bar overlooking the live-fire grill. The focus here is slow-cooked meat and offal and they do that (and more) exceptionally well. From the crispy fried zucchini with ewe’s-milk yogurt to the grilled lamb kidneys, caul-fat-wrapped mutton and grilled chicken, everything was delicious.
On Sifnos
Cantina
The setting — wedged improbably between the steep and craggy shoreline and the lapping waves of the Aegean — is beautiful and dramatic. Add to this the local-products-only sharing menu from the zero-waste kitchen of local star chef Giorgos Samoilis and the experience is magical. Our feast spanned marinated zucchini in zucchini cream and spearmint, thin-sliced raw beef with crumbled aged goat cheese, panisse with smoked pumpkin, grilled amberjack tail, and much more — all paired with superb Greek wines. Book it.
↗ Where to Stay
In Athens
Monument
This magnificently restored 19th-century mansion (designed by Ernst Ziller, who did the neoclassical Presidential Palace) in the historic city centre of Psiri has just nine rooms, each luxuriously appointed and spacious, with high stucco ceilings and large casement windows. The lobby features a beautiful communal space where you can enjoy breakfast and, later on, help yourself to the inviting drinks trolley. The bustling shopping hub of Ermou Street is a short hop away; the Acropolis a 10-minute walk.
In The Athens Riviera
91 Athens Riviera
This eco resort offers a singular mix of beach club, wellness spa and all-in next-
level glamping. Your quarters are essentially the spiffiest private tent you’ve ever seen, all mod con down to the excellent room service. This resort shares ownership with Makris, one of the posher restaurants (one Michelin star) to have a patio with a view of the Acropolis. Expect contemporary fine dining that showcases Greek products (red shrimp, langoustine, hake, etc.) alongside premium imports (wagyu, truffle, caviar).
Photo: (Top) Courtesy of 91 Athens Riviera, (Bottom) Makris Athens
On Sifnos
Nós
The design of this oceanside resort is very nearly as stunning as the views it offers — of the Aegean, the fishing village of Faros, and the 17th-century monastery of Chrysopigi. While Nós is delightfully isolated, only a short walk away are other bars, restaurants and beaches (Glyfou, Fasolou). The food is simple and pleasing (grilled octopus with olives and rosemary pesto, grilled daily fish, etc.). The staff are ultra-accommodating. And the 18 sprawling rooms, each different and private, feature sand-coloured walls and archways, luxe appointments and their own terraces.
– Jacob Richler
Photography by Alexandros Antoniades (Pharaoh), Nan Barlow (food images), Monument Hotel (stairs), Nós hotel (pool)
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