Cork Pops Off

Ireland’s second city is having a moment.
Like so many so-called second cities, southern Ireland’s Cork is, in many ways, a compact version of Dublin, the country’s capital. It’s walkable, intimate and utterly charming. It’s also blessed with a plethora of outstanding dining and drinking possibilities to the point that, however long you visit, you will find yourself wishing you could extend your stay.
Whiskey Wealth
If your idea of Irish whiskey extends only so far as Jameson and a handful of others, a trip to The Shelbourne Bar is a must. It has 538 Irish whiskeys on hand and at least one whiskey specialist always about. Not a whiskey drinker? Try your hand at the Holy Trinity blind tasting of Guinness, Beamish and Murphy’s stouts.
Washington Street Wonders
One door apart from each other on Washington Street, one of downtown’s main drags, The SpitJack and the Liberty Grill provide delectably divine but delightfully different dining experiences. Named for the machine that turns a spit, SpitJack specializes in rotisserie chicken and porchetta, while the Liberty offers three meals a day of sublimely elevated grill fare with more than a casual nod to French bistro.
• thespitjack.com • libertygrill.ie
Rising Craft
While the city is hardly short of historic pubs, with any number claiming the title of “oldest,” The Oval has a slight edge in its stocking of the beers of central Cork craft favourite Rising Sons Brewery. Try their assertively roasty but deliciously balanced Mí Daza Stout and compare it to those of the big breweries. You may find yourself moved to visit the brewery itself, located steps from the south bank of the River Lee.
• corkheritagepubs.com/the-oval
Golden Elbow Room
Almost facing each other across Oliver Plunkett Street are Elbow Lane Brew & Smoke House and Goldie — united by ownership, a devotion to local purveyors and unerring skill in the kitchen. Enjoy smokehouse fare and impressive draft beers crafted in an insanely small brewery at the back of Elbow Lane, or some of Ireland’s best seafood at Goldie. Book early, as both establishments are small.
Costigan’s Pub
In Ireland, sometimes it’s about the food, sometimes it’s about the drink, and sometimes it’s just about the craic, Irish slang for good times. And when good craic is combined with good drink, well, that’s Costigan’s, an independent 175-year-old pub in the west Cork Marsh Quarter. While away a couple of hours sipping from their impressive spirits selection, enjoy nightly live music presented at conversational volumes, or join the party for a pint or three on a Saturday night.
The Shelbourne Bar is a whiskey-lover’s dream
Rising Sons Brewery
Seafood is a specialty at Goldie
Enjoy smokehouse fare and draft beers at Elbow Lane
— Stephen Beaumont
Photography: (lead image, Shelbourne Bar) Hype Media; (Goldie) Ruth Calder-Potts





