Gagganeu presents Rafa Covarrubias on Good Taste

When Mexico-born chef Rafael Covarrubias opened Hexagon, the modern Michelin starred restaurant in Oakville, in 2018, it was loosely billed as a French restaurant.

But the designation never quite fit. “We kept steering away from that tag, and it was a dynamic journey to find our honest culinary identity,” says Covarrubias. Over eight years, Covarrubias led Hexagon into the definition of contemporary dining — a creative composite informed by his upbringing in Mexico, the surrounding community and the bounty of Canadian agriculture.  

Hexagon has two menus: an à la carte menu, and the restaurant’s true portrait, a seven-course tasting menu that takes curious guests on a narrative adventure.  “The tasting menu is where my heart is; it’s dialled into our identity in the kitchen, and it’s an opportunity to see all of the creativity and connections at play,” says Covarrubias. That creativity often means incorporating Ontario ingredients like rhubarb instead of the usual citrus or adding a last-minute dish based on the market’s best find. And if the tasting menu wasn’t enticing enough, it always includes the house favourite and near-obsession:  dry-aged duck.

Inspiration for every dish on either menu starts with a standout ingredient. Once the team finds the perfect seasonal produce or protein from a special source, they dive into possibility together, exploring ways to showcase it. “Either the ingredient has its own story that we highlight, or we use it to reflect our stories and heritages,” says Covarrubias. “But instead of trying to recreate something directly, we layer in experimental flavours, always reminding ourselves we can do whatever we want.”  

Covarrubias got a taste for the power of food through his mom’s side. “My family has always been food-driven, but my grandma truly communicated through it. Every year around the holidays my grandma made our tartar sauce for shrimp, and I never knew what made it distinctly hers,” he says. “In her last years, everyone in my family would bring her their version of her tartar sauce, and she’d dip her finger in, try it, and say ‘nope.’ Back to the drawing board we’d go. Seeing her express herself through food, and her drive to refine her recipe, likely sparked my interest in cooking.”  

For home cooks, the chef’s advice is all about prizing freshness and echoing his family’s way of making their mark on a dish. “I don’t get much time to cook at home, so when I do I head to the farmers’ market. If you have an idea, find a beautiful fresh ingredient that gets you excited to make it. Explore different cuisines and techniques, and if you read a recipe that intimidates you, try adding or swapping things in that give it your own take. Make it yours.” Whether at Hexagon or at home, Covarrubias’s craft extends beyond his technique; it’s a fusion of instinct, storytelling and an unwavering belief in the magic of a shared meal.

The TASTING menu is where MY HEART is; it’s dialled into our IDENTITY in the KITCHEN, and it’s an OPPORTUNITY to see all of the CREATIVITY and CONNECTIONS at play.

For over three centuries, Gaggenau has redefined the kitchen with uncompromising design, cutting-edge technology and unparalleled craftsmanship. Rooted in German innovation since 1683, just as chefs are inspired by their traditions, the legacy of Gaggenau informs every detail, enhancing the cooking experience and inviting creativity. Handcrafted for professional chefs and passionate home cooks alike, Gaggenau transforms cooking into an art – where performance meets precision, and every dish becomes a masterpiece to be shared.

The difference is Gaggenau.
gaggenau.com/ca