The 300-year-old Mallard Cottage, with its white clapboard and green trim, is as charming on a warm spring afternoon as in the midst of a blowing Nor’easter.

Chef Todd Perrin undertook a massive, two-year long renovation of the heritage building in 2011 and quickly put Quidi Vidi Village on the culinary map. It is alluring outside and ravishing within. A fire burns in the double-sided hearth, contented guests mingle freely and music fills the air. Delicious aromas emanate from the open kitchen.

Dishes emphasize wild game: braised moose with creamed cabbage, sweet spiced duck ragout, and seal in its season. Although the cooking is built around updated Newfoundland traditions—cod and caper-stuffed squid with dried scallop, braised rabbit fritters with ham and molasses—the kitchen is free to pursue culinary whims that might encompass a surf clam salad or gnocchi with brown butter and pecans. The weekend brunch, with its lavish cake table, is a Canadian classic. Cocktails are smart and modernHOURSWednesday to Saturday
10:30 AM until 2:00 PM,
and 5:30 PM until 9:00 PM

Sunday
10:30 AM until 2:00 PM,
and 3:00 PM until 7:00 PM

Flavour, humility and depth throughout. – ANTHONY WALSH

Todd Perrin makes every guest feel like they are dining in his home. – CONNIE DESOUSA

PHOTOS: BRIAN RICKS