In Toronto restaurant terms, this one is a senior citizen—and come evening you see plenty of those here, many of them wheeled down from apartments upstairs in the Benvenuto.

But you also see large groups out for special events and celebrations, and young couples out on important dates. It is a culinary institution with multi-generational appeal. In some large part, this is attributable to the flawless service, which flows seamlessly through to the helpful maitre d’ at the reception desk, the knowledgeable waiter and the tiptop sommelier.

Wine and water glasses are always discreetly topped up when needed—but not more often. Keith Froggett’s culinary vision, executed these days by Carolyn Reid, is well grounded in European classicism and packs just enough of a modern inventive touch to always remain interesting.

Fish dishes are invariably strong. (Say, seared sea scallops with cauliflower purée, olives, radish and Meyer lemon, or Newfoundland cod with truffle and gruyere crust.) Luxurious old-school stuffed quail is plated with seared foie gras and foie gras jus. The window-side views of the city at night are nearly peerless.HOURSMonday to Saturday
5:30 PM until LATE

Just like 20 years ago: attentive service and a great meal. – DINO RENAERTS

Consistently classic! – PAUL ALSOP

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RESTAURANT PHOTOS: MAT FABIJANIC