Jess Mili had big stilettos to fill when replacing the charmingly irreverent, proudly kinky bar manager known as “H.” While some bars are defined by their patrons, this intimate, 18-seat boîte tucked behind a barbershop has definitely been a reflection of its keeper. Mili, a Civil Liberties alumnus who is known as one of the most hospitable bartenders in the business, took over in early March. She doesn’t plan on changing much: same sci-fi comic-book menus; same obsessive attention to detail; same mix of cocktails (fun originals, classics by legendary bartenders and $100 High Roller Babies) served in whimsical vintage glassware. Vodka, however, is no longer verboten. We imagine there will also be far fewer middle-finger salutes from behind the wood.

TRY: A CLASSIC GIN MARTINI CHILLED TO PRECISELY -4.5°C Photo: NICK CHOMPS/COURTESY DONNELLY GROUP