It’s a bar name that’s doubly comforting. A “mother” gives life to all the fresh fermentations bubbling away in the cellar, which lend lip-smacking complexity to cocktails and small bites. On the cozy margins of Trinity Bellwoods, you’ll also get tender loving care from endearingly earnest servers.

TRY: THE SALTED NEGRONI, INFUSED WITH CEDAR, HIBISCUS AND THE TANGY JUICES OF SEASONAL FERMENTATIONS. Photo: JIMMY JINRAN MA