Anna Chen’s modern Chinese restaurant is inspired by her Hakka Chinese upbringing. Dishes are comforting — say, pork wonton and noodles with black pepper — and the menu changes seasonally. Charred miso black cod might be adorned with sunchoke and wood-ear; char siu pork with turnips and rice-wine kasu; chicken wings with chili and cilantro. The wine list is short and natural.