At opening, Alo sought to elevate Canadian fine dining with fresh international flair and a new standard of finesse. And while that mission was long ago accomplished, the project continues with its original fervour undimmed even as Alo anticipates its 10th anniversary this July. Tightly orchestrated tasting menus — 10 courses or so — are the name of the game in this intimate, elegant third-floor dining room with an open kitchen.

ELEGANT and ELEVATED, Alo never disappoints. Bliss Karmody

Chef-owner Patrick Kriss and chef de cuisine Tim Yun prefer international luxury to local forage, with their flavour pairings more often logical than daring, but there is beauty in the details. Culinary styles veer with studied fluidity from Japanese to French. A trio of amuse-bouches starring Petrossian caviar, foie gras and something raw from the Sea of Japan sets the tone for the delicacies to come. Such as Koshihikari rice, cooked in a donabe (clay) pot with shio koji butter and Périgord truffles, accompanied by A5 wagyu, seaweed and shiitake, finished with dashi– and kombu-oil broth. The supply of seasonal delicacies from afar is constant: Alba truffle in the fall, thick spears of white asparagus from Provence in early spring, and so on. The menu evolves constantly. Sommelier Christopher Sealy’s wine pairings for the tasting menu are the best way to go. Service is ultra-professional.