Chef Danny Beaulieu and his team at änkôr have helped the little Rocky Mountain town of Canmore shake off its ski-bum reputation just enough to lure in the epi-curious from farther afield than nearby Calgary and Edmonton. Warm candlelight, exposed brick, wooden beams, a polished pine bar and a living wall of hanging ivy tease bucolic vibes, while an open kitchen proffers a window on slick culinary theatre. So, what’s on show? Beaulieu melds his Québécois heritage with lessons learned from his culinary immersion in the cities of Sapporo and Hokkaido. The results are, invariably, brilliantly integrated flavours, sensational textures and colourful plating, which you can experience à la carte or as a six-course tasting menu. Starters might bring foie gras with brioche, Cara Cara oranges and smoked almonds; or veal tartare with puffed tendon, brandy and cheese foam. A main course of braised Alberta lamb belly hits all the right notes — it’s served with semi-dried-tomato ragout, pickled tongue, charred tomato consommé, fermented black bean vinaigrette and smoked mussel. Trust sommelier Romain Brillant to choose the perfect wine for the dish, such as Giuseppe Quintarelli’s 2016 Valpolicella Classico Superiore.