UNSURPRISINGLY, this perennially improving Kitsilano gem has opted to celebrate its 10th anniversary year with style – lots of it. First, in January, came a dramatic change in the colour palette, from white and bright to dark (navy blue) and moody. Next up – in June – the kitchen will be remodelled and expanded, and the bar replaced. But for all the changes, the cooking from chef Mike Robbins that put this place on the map remains a constant: ultra-imaginative, refined, whimsical and seasonally attuned. The tasting menu evolves continually, one dish at a time. Although some signature items – like the oyster crowned with apple-jalapeño mignonette and shaved foie gras, or the torn bread with mussels and broth (and other seasonal complements) are not going anywhere. In spring and summer expect plump local morels stuffed with scallop mousse, accompanied by alkaline noodle and aerated porcini, and dry-aged duck.

Outstanding WINE and STORYTELLING from sommelier Reverie Beall. Don House

Culinary influences are disparate but always precisely executed. Despite the sophistication of what’s on the plate, the room remains relaxed and visually playful, its Lego sculptures, Star Wars memorabilia and other charming bric-a-brac popping more vividly than ever against their new dark backdrop. Celebrated wine director Reverie Beall bolsters the fun factor with delicious, hard-to-find wines from small producers, while cocktails deftly straddle the divide between tradition and modern experimentation.