Impeccably sourced ingredients get modern spins, with French finesse and Asian accents. Special-order slow-cooked halibut in a truffle jacket is sublime. The team is led by Roger Ma, with Iron Chef Alex Chen and chef de cuisine Daniel Kim. The cellar leans toward France and new-world labels with old-world personalities. Desserts, by Kenta Takahashi, are exquisite. Service is polished to a fine sheen.