A neon pineapple, the global symbol of hospitality, is the only signage out front. But that says everything. This place isn’t fancy (parts of the floor are painted plywood, the bar is made from copper pennies, projected silent films pass for wall décor), but it’s the platonic ideal of an honest neighbourhood bar. Within this bastion of no-menu, custom cocktail service, the vibe ranges from alcohol-nerd symposium to full-on party, depending on the hour. Grab a stool and take a bartender-guided tour through the house-made fortified wines and liqueurs, including Majorts, an homage to the Chicago staple, Jeppson’s Malört. With top-notch draft cocktails (like the ultimate Espresso Martini) from sister company Civil Pours increasingly available in other bars, Civil might just be sparking its own peaceful protest against dull, ordinary drinks.