The intimacy of the small, narrow space, its good looks, seductively dim lighting and cool Italo-disco playlist combine for an unusual charm. Add to the mix discreet, professional and friendly service, a progressive but accessible wine list, and owner-chef Zach Kolomeir’s smart, inventive French-inspired cooking, and it’s no surprise this Harbord bistro has been a hit since Day 1.

Hospitality at its best. SIMPLE menu, QUALITY ingredients and delicious plates. Elise Tastet

Recently, the cooking here has been influenced by Mike Sala, who cut his teeth at revered Abruzzo restaurants. Some dishes — like agnolotti with saffron — wink to his heritage, while others pay homage to Kolomeir’s Montreal roots and Joe Beef credentials. But increasingly, that exuberantly indulgent style has given way to dishes that are more streamlined and focused, truer to modern bistro cooking. Consider a recent early-spring Ontario rainbow trout en croute with leeks and tomato beurre blanc. Or steak tartare on a square of latke, and roast chicken with chanterelles and black truffle. Millefeuille à la Lyonnaise is an aged top sirloin layered with Lyonnaise potatoes and finished with red wine sauce, rosemary salsa verde, and fermented Habanada peppers. The menu practises impermanence and shifts with each micro-season, though a mastery of French mother sauces will always be showcased. Let your server pair wines by the glass — and do not forgo dessert.