Marilena was intended to give coastal Victoria the grand modern seafood restaurant that it’s theoretically entitled to. Mission accomplished — the restaurant fired on all cylinders from the beginning (and, in the process, was voted C100B’s 2024 best new restaurant). Push through its well-polished rotating door and you will clock the resemblance to other restaurants in Vancouver-based Toptable Group’s stable (Bluewater Café, CinCin, Elisa, etc.) In short, the space is large and looks expensive — back-lit art, dramatic lighting, plush banquettes and, behind the bar, a vast wall of glinting bottles. But it’s culinary ambition that makes this place interesting. That job gets done, thanks to Sushi Chef Ilhan Yu (ex-Miku), whom you’ll find at the raw bar, and to the exceptionally talented Kristian Eligh (ex-Hawksworth), in the main kitchen. Their combined menus are vast, but not at the expense of detail. The nigiri excels with local harvest (say, spot prawn, albacore and an exquisite, mildly chewy halibut belly topped with Northern Divine Caviar). From the main kitchen, start with a crudo — perhaps kampachi with Meyer lemon, EVOO and chili. Crispy-skinned striped bass with wilted yu choy, maitake and house-made XO sauce is a masterclass in seafood cookery — ostensibly simple, but umami-rich and texturally complex. Service is slick and the wine cellar as ambitious as the rest of the program.