Thanks to its sensibly delineated spaces, this vast and eminently stylish Old Montreal brasserie manages to feel intimate and comfortable in a manner that belies its 175 seats. You can dine à la carte at the stunning bar with 20 stools and a lounge; or, just beyond, in the brasserie; or if you’re inclined toward something more elevated, enjoy an entirely different multi-course menu in the back room, with its elegant black banquettes and white tablecloths. The tiled expanse of Alain Carle’s design is decidedly modern, with industrial flourishes that pay obvious tribute to the work of late local architect Luc Laporte (L’Express, Lux, etc.). Eminently talented chef Jérémie Bastien likes to apply lightening contemporary touches (often Asian) to classic French flavour profiles. So, in the brasserie, you’ll find seared tuna with ginger, carrot and shiitake along with classics like roast bone marrow with snails, an à la minute bouillabaisse and boudin with pommes purées. In the salle à manger, an unctuous foie gras royale is served with dashi and yuzu, while striped bass comes with a classic sauce vin jaune. Fish and shellfish is a strong point on both menus, but then, so is the dry-aged P.E.I. beef program. Pastry chef Lisa Yu does exceptional work, from her rich and flaky tarte Tatin to her light mango pavlova. Service is deft, the wine list extensive and contemporary.
