Portage is casual and convivial, its culinary style Newfoundland Canadiana with global nods. Celeste Mah and Ross Larkin (both ex-Raymonds) create dishes without affectation — like scallop toast with kimchi jam and garlic mayo, pork dumplings with sweet soy and chili crisp, and cured char with cream cheese, lavash and crispy garlic. Cocktails are inventive.