What started in 1991 as a seasonal snack shack has long since become an institution, on its way to achieving owner Sal Howell’s goal of creating “a restaurant that would seem as if it had always existed.” Hemmed by river and trees, River Café’s location on Prince’s Island Park sets it apart. So too does its approach to dining. Here, a reverence for the environment and the commitment to exclusive use of Canadian and Albertan ingredients are evident on every plate. The dining room’s rustic décor highlights exposed wood, stone and brick, and the vintage sports equipment is a nod to local fishing lodges and mountain resorts. In the fall, Kristen Livingston replaced Scott MacKenzie as executive chef. Yet, as chefs have come and gone over the years, the culinary ethos here remains steadfast, with seasonal offerings rich in rural flavours executed with urban finesse. Duck breast is served with honey-poached quince, grilled radicchio and duck jus; tomatoes are dressed with honey and rhubarb gel, chèvre and cherry cider. Sommelier Bruce Soley’s wine list is replete with obscure treasures from lesser-known producers. With verdant green surrounding the patio through the warmer months, and the cozy crackle of the fireplace through fall and winter, all seasons make for a welcome trip.

A Calgary CLASSIC that maintains its relevance through CONSISTENT dedication to excellence. Elizabeth Chorney-Booth