As the name suggests, this minuscule Little Italy bistro is air conditioned — a nod to signage popular at Parisian cafés. Though you’d do well to choose the street-side terrasse if it’s not too stifling out. Founder Brendan Lavery recently added James Coyle in the kitchen, and he maintains a compact and playful continental menu that displays solid technique and puts ingredients first, leaning heavily on a tight network of top-quality artisanal Quebec producers. In cold weather, expect black pudding with pommes purée and rhubarb mustard. Or beef tartare served with a walnut sauce and Louis D’Or gougères. In growing season, simple preparations of pristine ingredients hit the plate, with minimal manipulation: tomato and peach with whipped ricotta and lovage, or a poached piece of Newfoundland cod — “sent over by Paul at Foggy Shoals” — with watercress. Two desserts are offered, one sweet and rich (say, sticky pudding) and one fresh and light (tonka-bean cream with a Seville-orange garnish). Set designer François Séguin created the subtle ambience; ceramicist Élyse Leclerc hewed and hung the Calder-evoking mobile. Wines are low-intervention, and cocktails — a new addition — are limited to gin and tonics with verjus.