Innovative Italian Wines and Spirits
Italian wines and spirits offer a remarkable variation of styles determined by local grapes, climates, terroir and, not least, heritage. These styles are also determined to a larger extant by the philosophy of the winemakers and, in many cases, their centuries of winemaking experience. On top of that, modern winemaking techniques that emphasize innovation both in the vineyards and in the production facilities means that these products can appeal to both traditional and contemporary tastes. Italian wine and spirit makers continue to innovate and maintain an eye on the future. Here are a few of the top producers.
It is a genuinely family affair at Aurelio Settimo in Alba where, since 1943, four generations of the Settimo family have been crafting some of Piemonte’s finest wines, including a highly coveted Barolo. Winemaker Tiziana Settimo and her son, Davide, along with his partner Giulia, run a tight production of DOC and DOCG wines made from nebbiolo and dolcetto grown in some of the region’s finest vineyards located near the town of La Morra. They make just 40,000 bottles a year. Roughly 24,000 are Barolo from nebbiolo grown on the Rocche dell’Annunziata site. This famous vineyard totals 30 hectares shared among 22 growers — so, with three hectares under ownership, Settimo is, in fact, one of the region’s larger producers. Tiziana also makes about 14,000 bottles of Langhe DOCG nebbiolo (from 5.5 hectares) and 8,000 bottles of Dolcetta d’Alba (one hectare).
Tiziana has been making the wine here since 1987, alongside her father, and brought in her first solo harvest in 2000. “We are a traditional winery with an eye to the future, particularly sustainability,” she says. “I innovated a lot in the last 20 years, but I never changed the ageing.” She likes barrels between 2,500 and 3,500 litres, finding these vessels deliver the right balance of oak. The rest happens in the vineyard. “This is really a special terroir. Roccha has the right altitude at 270 to 320 metres above sea level. We are protected from cold winds, and the exposures give us sunshine from morning to late afternoon. And the soil — clay and limestone and blue marl — gives us Barolos that are powerful but really fragrant, with tannins are really gentle and delicate.” She strives to make wines that are easy to drink within a few years of bottling. “For us, it’s about floral notes and also nuts. Then, with ageing, we move into licorice and white truffle notes. I believe 90 percent comes from terroir — and 10 percent from the winemaker.”
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It would not be an overstatement to say that Nonino, an Italian family-owned business founded in 1897 in Friuli, Italy, has single-handedly redefined grappa and, consequentially, introduced the grape spirit into the modern age. Their dedication to quality and innovation has garnered countless awards, but the real proof is their global reach, not only for their grappa but also for their every-expanding range of amaro and liqueurs. From the 1900s to just 50 years ago, grappa was the drink of peasants — basically a moonshine, if you will — made from pomace left over from winemaking. Today’s grappa bears little resemblance — and the credit for this goes entirely to Nonino. In 1973, the distillery created — invented, more correctly — single-variety grappa called Monovitigno. This set off a spirit of innovation based on the belief that high-quality ingredients, carefully manipulated and refined, could create superior products suitable for sipping and ageing, just the same as the world’s great brandies, rums, whiskies, and tequilas. Other grappa makers followed suit. Then, in 1984, Nonino launched ÙE, a distillate made with whole grapes — something of a hybrid product with flavour and textural qualities straddling grappa and brandy.
The drive to innovate runs deep at this family-run business, currently under the direction of the fifth generation. Three sisters — Elisabetta, Cristina and Antonella — run the show, maintaining an ethos set out by their forebears. Distiller Cristina builds on the legacy of her grandmother, who was the first female master distiller in Italy and held the recipe for what would eventually become Nonino Quintessentia, an amaro beloved by mixologists. “My parents looked at our innovations and experiments not in order to make money but as something to give gratitude to themselves, to be proud of,” says Elisabetta. This extends to the packaging of their products, which feature artfully designed bottles — especially for coveted limited-edition barrel-aged expressions — and product “ID cards” that speak to the provenance and craft of every bottle. Nonino has a research lab dedicated to experimentation with ingredients and techniques. “A good distiller translates the characteristics of the raw material into the glass without adding anything else,” says Elisabetta. “This is at the heart of what our father taught us: Remember that you are good, and be proud.”
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Tenuta Sant’Antonio has become a cornerstone of premium winemaking in the Veneto region, celebrated for wines that highlight the region’s natural elegance, approachability and complexity. This is a project based on passion and practicality. The Castagnedi brothers founded Tenuta Sant’Antonio with a shared commitment to elevate the region’s wine quality, combining generations of experience with innovative techniques in the vineyards and in the cellar. This dedication has earned the winery critical acclaim and prestigious awards, including golds at Mundus Vini and high scores from Decanter for their Amarone, Valpolicella, and Soave wines.
The winery produces DOC and DOCG wines that leverage the region’s limestone soils and favorable climate, which is moderated by Lake Garda. Respect for the land is paramount. The Castagnedi brothers prioritize sustainability, using organic and biodynamic methods to ensure each bottle reflects the unique character of the land. Low-intervention practices help preserve the natural integrity of the wines. Tenuta Sant’Antonio’s sophisticated portfolio offers an accessible range of wines, with its Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli — “field of lilies” — garnering many awards. One of three Amarone on offer, the wine delivers intense flavors of dark fruit, dried figs, cocoa, and spice with a silky texture and long finish — perfect for braised meats like lamb shank or short ribs. The winery also makes Valpolicella Superiore and Ripasso, along with a classic Valpolicella. The winery’s Soave Monte Ceriani is a mineral-driven white made with garganega grapes, expressing citrus, white flowers and nutty notes. The approachable Scaia line of wines is varietally driven and includes a corvina, chardonnay/garganega blend, and a rosato.
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In the heart of Puglia, Vigneti del Salento is focussed on making wines from the oldest primitivo bush vines grown by a variety of farmers with deep roots in the region. The winery is located on the “heel” of the boot in the Salento region, where winemaking history dates back to the ancient Greeks. This is a relatively new winery, part of Farnese Group’s strategy to highlight the best of southern Italian wine regions by marrying tradition with sustainable viticulture techniques and a state-of-the-art facility. Some of the bush vines around Manduria and Sava are a century old — they are known as albarelli — and produce wines of great concentration, finesse and complexity. Here, the climate is classic Mediterranean, with long hot summers moderated by cooling sea breezes from both the Adriatic and Ionian seas. Grape yields are kept low due to special arrangements with the growers and harvesting is controlled to ensure optimal fruit selection. The conditions here are ideal for grape growing, as they have been for centuries.
Vigneti del Salento is producing wines that express a classic style — full-bodied yet fresh, well-structured and balanced. A range of wines are made with primitivo, famous for its soft, ripe tannins and full and intense dark berry and plum notes. This profile is enhanced with sweet spice, drawing comparisons to zinfandel, as the two grapes enjoy a shared genetic heritage. Wines are also made with negroamaro, which is native to Puglia, and produces distinctive herbaceous qualities tempered with a pleasant earthiness. Expect generous dark fruit with hints of chocolate and coffee. These wines are velvety in texture, with balancing acidity that makes them versatile with robustly flavour dishes.
As Puglian wines gain recognition on the global stage, the wines of Vigneti del Salento are at the forefront. The wines have received the prestigious Tre Bicchieri rating from Italy’s Gambero Rosso, along with medals from Decanter World Wine Awards, Mundus Vini and Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.
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