Recent renovations in the kitchen marked the restaurant’s 10th anniversary. In the front of house, the joyous mood and design — by local superstar Zébulon Perron — remains as contemporary and appealing as ever. Whimsical touches are everywhere. Is that Elmo seated at the bar? And why are all those plastic triceratops gathered on the pass? They are serving dinosaurs, obviously — vessels for some manner of tartare de pétoncles. Plaza co-chefs and co-owners Charles-Antoine Crête and Cheryl Johnson are committed to having fun, but they also share unassailable credentials and an intense commitment to quality. Crête is an improvisational virtuoso; Johnson provides an enabling balance. Together they push boundaries, leaning on French tradition while embracing Japanese. Crème d’oursin has been on the menu since opening. It’s sea urchin with soy and pickled ginger and urchin cream, dressed with flowers and microgreens. Trout on a cloud is a textural play of house-smoked trout, cured trout roe, capers, lemon and dill on Carasau-style bread. For dessert, break into meringue shaped like Lisa Simpson’s cartoon hair to find sea buckthorn berries fresh and transformed into powder, gel and an ethereal crémeux. The tasting menu here was never part of the original plan; it was introduced in response to customer demand. Ever since, it’s been the most popular way to dine.

Always great food and ambiance.” Olivier Robillard