Every rule has its exceptions, and when it comes to that old restaurant saw “location, location, location” this Japanese food-lovers haven comes readily to mind.

Mitsuhiro Kaji has thrived quietly on this grim stretch of The Queensway for close to two decades. A renovation a few years back rendered the restaurant sleek and bright. More importantly, it tripled the number of the much soughtafter seats at the bar—which is where you want to sit in order to enjoy a proper omakase menu, and observe its cold dishes being prepared. Expect fatty kampachi (jackfish), firm Spanish mackerel and tender sea bream, all flown in from Japan. Portuguese octopus is impeccably tender.

Yellowtail belly is sweet and fatty. In May, be prepared to eat your BC spot prawns here still twitching. Chawanmushi with crab, poached monkfish liver, miso-baked fish and hot seasonal dishes like crisp Japanese eggplant round out the offering beautifully in their respective seasons. Sake selection is adequate.HOURSMonday to Saturday
Dinner onlyClick here for more Toronto restaurants from Canada’s 100 Best list.

RESTAURANT PHOTOS:MAT FABIJANIC