In the approach from the street, Edulis appears to be just another neighbourhood bistro—an impression sustained within, where the décor is modest and simple, and the scale of the place spans just 30-odd seats over two small rooms.

But a closer look reveals unmistakable signs of some far more serious, old-school, European culinary ambitions. The restaurant’s name is taken from boletus edulis—read cep, or porcini, one of the finest wild mushrooms imaginable. More revealing still is the contraption on the table in the corner: a duck press, modelled after the one introduced in the late nineteenth century at Le Tour d’Argent in Paris. Here, like there, your canard à la presse comes roasted rare and finished with a sauce made primarily from blood squeezed from its carcass, finished tableside—in this case by co-owner, front of house manager and co-chef Tobey Nemeth. Her husband, chef Michael Caballo also produces a superior pâté en croûte, studded generously with foie gras. More often, though, the local culinary inspiration is drawn from Spain. Quality fish and truffles are among the preferred ingredients—often combined (say, wild striped bass with black truffle and pea and parsley sauce). The European style (read: delightfully indulgent and prolonged) Sunday brunch is a favourite ticket among its cultish, foodie followers. The wine list is short, but the convivial experience and excellent cooking make up for that, and then some.HOURSWednesday to Sunday
6:00 PM until 10:30 PM

Sunday Lunch
RSVP between 12:00 PM and 1:30 PM

Technical skill, fine ingredients and heart and soul make this the finest restaurant in the country. – GEDDY LEE

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RESTAURANT PHOTOS: MAT FABIJANIC