Page 1
No. 19

Sushi Masaki Saito

WHEN THIS GLORIOUSLY posh and authentic sushiya opened in 2019, protestations about its staggering price of admission were typically met with a dismissive “Well, it’s cheaper than a flight to Tokyo.” Alas, two Michelin stars and one huge price hike later, this is technically no longer true. A seat at the bar here is now on par with a one-way ticket to Tokyo; at least, if you are willing — God forbid — to fly coach. No matter, no one who eats here does fly coach. And do they ever have it good. Hokkaido-born and Tokyo-trained itamae Masaki Saito has exceptional pedigree and serves up his edomae sushi experience just as Poseidonsan intended. Which is to say, one piece at a time, as ready, straight from his water-moistened hand to your own and, from there, flipped fish-side down onto the tongue without ever touching plate or counter (in this case, hewn from beautiful 200-year-old hinoki) in between. Dining is strictly omakase. Note the form and fanfare with which Saito stirs and seasons his exquisite rice in the handai. Then spend your evening thinking to yourself, That’s the best __ I’ve ever had! Fill in the blank as the season dictates — conch clam, gari, uni, rice, gizzard shad, needlefish, chicken grunt, cherry blossom trout, tamago, aged bluefin, you name it. The silky-smooth, sweet monkfish liver is a display of mastery. Bill aside, the experience is blissful.

They are all the same.

Like a three-star TOKYO RESTAURANT.”
–Howard Levitt

News and more

Sign up to our newsletter