IN A NARROW SLIP OF A SPOT, this restaurant squeezes patrons together like they’re family — an approach that echoes both D.O.P.’s menu and hospitality ethos. Classic dishes are made from recipes passed down to owner Tony Migliarese from his mother, Rose. These are given contemporary touches, while every plate is served up with the same warmth Migliarese learned from watching his father in his own Italian restaurant. The hefty bone-in veal chop remains a menu stalwart, but, for other offerings, flavours and ingredients change with the seasons. That means the plate-sized egg-yolk-and-ricotta raviolo is, at times, bathed in saffron butter or studded with baby leeks. Sweet, soft Okanagan peaches are added to the panzanella in summer, and local corn features in pasta dishes through early fall. Antipasti is taken very, very seriously. The hot, pillowy wedges of grilled bread, spicy spreadable ’nduja, whipped ricotta and the family’s famous pickled green tomatoes rival the delectable pastas. House wine options are solid, complemented by finer bottles and premixed cocktails. Snag a spot while you can — the building’s impending demolishment means, for now, time at D.O.P. is limited.
Noisy, crowded and joyous! Elizabeth Carson
Milanese chop and tajarin pasta, guanciale, chiles
Milanese chop and tajarin pasta, guanciale, chiles
