MANDEL HITZER’S IMAGINATIVE COOKING LEADS DINERS in a host of unexpected directions, one as satisfying as the next. Local prairie products get their time in the spotlight, but with a supporting cast of international delicacies. So, expect Winnipeg goldeye (smoked, on a latke with crème fraîche and whitefish caviar) but also sidestripe prawns from B.C., scallops from Hokkaido and A5 wagyu, too. The culinary thinking is even more international — pierogies, sure, but also French-inspired steelhead en brioche, sauced with manzanilla and yuzu kosho, and duck plated with Szechuan spätzle salad. Hitzer is clearly having fun — and it works for everyone. Choose the dining room for the four-course prix fixe or opt for the à la carte menu at the bar (there is overlap in choices). The wine program looks to small producers and uncommon grape varieties and includes a pairing to complement the prix fixe. The space — punctuated by warm wood accents, bright works of art and soft lighting — is intimate and stylish, and the mood indulgent and convivial.

Full of surprises and innovations. Matthew Liang