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No. 39

Deer + Almond

MANDEL HITZER’S IMAGINATIVE COOKING LEADS DINERS in a host of unexpected directions, one as satisfying as the next. Local prairie products get their time in the spotlight, but with a supporting cast of international delicacies. So, expect Winnipeg goldeye (smoked, on a latke with crème fraîche and whitefish caviar) but also sidestripe prawns from B.C., scallops from Hokkaido and A5 wagyu, too. The culinary thinking is even more international — pierogies, sure, but also French-inspired steelhead en brioche, sauced with manzanilla and yuzu kosho, and duck plated with Szechuan spätzle salad. Hitzer is clearly having fun — and it works for everyone. Choose the dining room for the four-course prix fixe or opt for the à la carte menu at the bar (there is overlap in choices). The wine program looks to small producers and uncommon grape varieties and includes a pairing to complement the prix fixe. The space — punctuated by warm wood accents, bright works of art and soft lighting — is intimate and stylish, and the mood indulgent and convivial.

Full of surprises and innovations. Matthew Liang
Manitoba wagyu and pork, fermented ground cherries, shiso.
Manitoba wagyu and pork, fermented ground cherries, shiso.
Best Seat
Set in a corner framed by windows, Table No. 9 offers a view of the restaurant and Winnipeg’s historic Exchange District.

Photography by Simeon Rusnak

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