Dominique Dufour (ex-Gray Jay) returns with this ByWard Market gem, a self-described “Quebec wine bar” turning out shareable plates from a frequently changing menu. Think duck-sausage-stuffed morels with fennel-and-lemon sauce — ducks are raised by Dufour — or black cod with beurre blanc, scallop-mousseline-stuffed morels and sweet snap peas.