Laurence Théberge opened this convivial buvette last year with husband Philippe Guilbault. Previously, she was at Patrice Pâtissier; he at Mastard, as head waiter. The food is seasonal, approachable and finessed. Small plates — like whipped ricotta with radish green pesto, or foie gras mousse with brandied apple and blackcurrant gelée — are perfect for afternoon snacking with an aperitif. Desserts are equally accomplished.