This intimate and well-considered new restaurant in the Plateau, on the former site of Maison Publique, has been a smash hit from the get-go last summer. A good part of its success is attributable to its design, a winning collaboration from local wunderkind Zébulon Perron and restaurant co-owner Dan Climan, the painter responsible for the striking Dalmatian that anchors the dining room. Then there’s the smart, restrained cooking from co-chefs Danny Smiles and Mitch Laughren and their chef de cuisine, Sara Raspa. The team works closely with local purveyors, farmsteads and coastal fisheries to highlight the integrity of ingredients. In summer months, bluefin tuna from the Gaspé meets heirloom tomatoes in a reimagining of pan con tomate, while gnocchi cavolo nero is tossed in a pesto made from Parcelles’ farm greens. As the weather cools, dishes take on a heartier edge — mussels served with Irish stout bread, baked daily, and Presbytère cheddar custard. Charcoal-grilled Ferme d’Orée lamb chops — a house classic — are marinated in anchoïade and served with La Valletta chickpeas and a delicate tomato broth. Esme Millar’s wine list balances natural and classic selections and is built around smaller producers who share the restaurant’s ethos. Cocktails are reimagined classics.

DON’T MISS the soft-serve sundae. Scott Usheroff