This 32-seat restaurant on the edge of Little Italy draws customers from well beyond its neighbourhood. The small room is charming. Off-white walls contrast handsomely with dark wood wainscotting, white-tablecloth-draped tables are set with wooden bistro chairs, and the wall sconces sport white paper lampshades shaped like namesake parapluies. But the open kitchen dominates — and this is where the magic happens. Chef Robin Filteau-Boucher, in charge of his own restaurant for the first time, delivers a lovely, short and seasonally evolving menu that, only a year in, nonetheless already boasts a few unchanging classics. Like his spin on oeuf mayonnaise, wherein just-firm eggs dressed with tarragon-infused mayonnaise share a plate with poached lobster set in lobster bisque. And his “Mtl-style” trout, lightly torched, seasoned with pseudo “everything bagel” garnish (sesame, garlic, pine nuts) and finished with horseradish sauce and dill oil. More seasonally inspired items run from scallop crudo brightened with rhubarb to ricotta gnocchi with ragout of morels enriched with a luscious chicken-wing jus. Karelle Voyer oversees the front of house and the wine program, which — like the food here — is very approachably priced, with many a surprising gem (like local Camy chardonnay). Cocktails run from classic to trendy clarifications and infusions.