Bienvenue chez Patrice et Marie-Josée. In their new 14-seat home, he cooks, she chooses the wines — and together, they serve everything. That’s right: After eight years of working together at their extremely successful Patrice Pâtissier (2014–2022), Patrice Demers and his sommelier partner, Marie-Josée Beaudoin, decided to reinvent their business model, streamlining it so completely that they no longer have any employees. The experience is very personal and highly convivial. Demers is a legendary pastry chef, and his six-course tasting menus show that he is just as deft with savoury flavours as he is with sweet ones. Again and again, he combines surprising notes in seemingly effortless harmony. Sometimes, his plates blur the line between savoury and sweet — as with his signature dish of grilled oyster mushrooms on pommes purée, topped with a caramelized arlette tuile (a light, crisp puff-pastry wafer) and anointed with sabayon. Meat — say, braised beef cheek with turnip and radicchio — figures occasionally; local fish (like char and eel) are more frequently featured. As is market produce from small local growers. Imported delicacies reside mainly in the pastry kitchen (chocolate, coffee, sesame, etc.). Whatever the dish, Beaudoin will select a perfect glass to go with it — perhaps an old vintage from the mythical López de Heredia estate. Or, at the weekend afternoon tea, a hōjicha.