Hokkaido-born and Tokyo-trained sushi master Masaki Saito has been keeping unusually busy of late. But anyone concerned that his extra workload at MSSM and LSL was affecting quality at this temple to edomae sushi can relax. The experience is as sublime as ever. It unfolds just as Poseidon-san intended, one piece at a time, as ready, straight from Saito’s water-moistened hand to your own and, from there, flipped fish-side down onto the tongue without ever touching plate or counter (in this case, hewn from beautiful 200-year-old hinoki) in between. Dining is strictly omakase. Note the form and fanfare with which Saito stirs and seasons his exquisite rice in the handai. Then spend your evening thinking to yourself, That’s the best ___ I’ve ever had! Fill in the blank as the season dictates — conch clam, gari, uni, rice, gizzard shad, needlefish, chicken grunt (isaki), cherry blossom trout, tamago, you name it. Dry-aged bluefin comes topped with black truffle. The meji-maguro (the veal of bluefin) with sansho pepper sauce and myoga ginger is not to be missed. No Japanese chef in Canada has the connections (or budget) for sourcing Japanese fish and other products anything close to Saito’s.