Dinner in the historic 17th-century cellars of this exclusive restaurant in Old Quebec is not for everyone. First, you need to procure that coveted reservation — which comes with instructions, and an access code. Just as important, you must arrive with your curiosity and appetite intact, along with a willingness to immerse yourself in a theatrical universe that shows off Quebec’s terroir in novel and startling ways.

I am TRULY jealous of what chef François-Emmanuel has BUILT. Massimo Piedimonte

The experience is perfectly orchestrated from start to finish — a culinary journey in three chapters and 15 small plates. It might begin with, say, a single spoonful of sea bass ceviche in leche de tigre spiked with sea buckthorn and wood sorrel, and conclude with mignardises that taste convincingly of pineapple, passion fruit or chocolate but, in fact, owe their evocative aromas to marigold, chamomile and black sunchoke. In between, you might enjoy grilled duck with local fraises des bois. Or Quebec wagyu tenderloin served with what smells like pepper sauce — but instead, owes its misleading scent to oil extracted from goldenrod. For its accompaniment, wild mushrooms, chard cooked in wagyu fat, a hazelnut tuile, foamed hazelnut milk and julienned charred leeks. Hopefully, you’ll experience a signature dish that convincingly demonstrates the perfect harmony of Quebec scallops, local caviar and beurre blanc. It’s easy to forget here that every ingredient is sourced from Quebec.