The concept behind the dark and moody design of this Vancouver institution is traditional Chinese medicine. It’s referenced in backlit anatomical illustrations behind the bar and a Remedies and Cures cocktail list that leans heavily to bitter. Yet, The Keefer’s hospitality makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into the world’s friendliest underground booze can, where everyone knows your name. (Expect the team’s new Vancouver brasserie, June, to exude the same warmth.) The drinks, accented with Asian ingredients — such as salted pomelo, clarified tofu coconut milk and star anise bitters — are stirred to perfection and chilled with crystal-clear ice (carved in-house). The music, usually from live DJs, is funky. Do order the dim sum and Taiwanese cauliflower; the dumplings and the lap cheong sausage are sourced from Chinatown neighbours.