Park is and remains one of the top restaurants in the former culinary desert of otherwise posh Westmount.

No one will say that the popularity of this address is due to the décor, for the single room is almost bare, with towering ceilings and minimalist furnishings.

But Antonio Park, the Japanese trained Korean-Argentinian Quebec chef at the helm, prepares highly precise Japanese-style cuisine of unusual cross-cultural inventiveness. It is loved by locals and out-of-towners alike. Ask hockey player PK Subban, who is a regular: Park prepares some the freshest and finest sushi, nigiri and sashimi in town. The cooking is delicate, and much of it is highly original. Think Japanese-style raw fish with a robust Korean edge—and maple syrup.

The best—albeit, most expensive—option is to order an omakase at the back counter, and put yourself in Park’s hands where you can watch him work his magic. (If there is no room at Park, opt for the chef ’s other restaurant next door, Lavanderia, for Argentinian style grilled meat and exotic salads.)HOURSMonday to Friday
11:00 AM until 11:00 PM

Saturday
10:00 AM until 11:00 PM

Sunday
10:00 AM until 2:00 PMClick here for more Montreal restaurants from Canada’s 100 Best list.

RESTAURANT PHOTOS: CARLOS GUERRA, FOOD PHOTO: RICCARDO CELLERE