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No. 30

Pompette

THIS CHARMING BANQUETTELINED BISTRO WITH PATIOS FRONT and back represents an unusual confluence of French talent — especially for the city’s Little Italy. Your resident Strasbourgeois mixologist, Maxime Hoerth, worked for five years in Paris at the über-swanky bar at the George V, eventually managing it before moving on to do the same at Le Bar du Bristol. Then there’s his fellow Alsatian — multi-award-winning sommelier Jonathan Bauer-Monneret, ex of Daniel Rose’s late, lamented Paris restaurant Spring. And finally, his wife, chef Martine Bauer, whose French kitchen experience includes Hôtel de Matignon. So, upon settling in here at Pompette, you’ll want to start with the cocktail list, and maybe try the signature nitro colada, a lightened version of the piña colada, made with centrifuge-clarified pineapple juice (which Hoerth will considerately mix up for you for roughly the same price as a glass of water at Le Bristol). Then, as you move on to some prettily executed classic bistro starters — say, the cromesquis with Espelette-spiked mayo or the smartly squared-off poireaux vinaigrette — it will be time to delve into the impressive and burgeoning wine list. A crisp Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc to go with striped bass and choucroute, or perhaps something different, and local? Ask M. Bauer, if he’s on hand, and while you’re at it, for the best pairing for the sweetbreads, too. Desserts are classical (crème caramel, etc.) and the service, professional and discreet.

Photography by: Sandy Nicholson, Jeffrey Chan

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