The sumptuous room welcomes with a vaulted gold-leaf ceiling and luxuriant accents. The menu is Italian, fittingly, as chefs Craig Harding and Julian D’Ippolito also run La Palma and Constantine. Crudos and carpaccios are bright, pastas rich, and excellent celery root ravioli rests in a deeply flavoured broth. Bow-tied bartenders command the bar, which is perfect for perching.