ENSCONCED DEEP WITHIN THE MEZZANINE of the Fairmont Pacific Rim hotel, away from the civilized din of its Lobby Lounge, Botanist’s greenery-filled dining room and seasonal menus are tributes to the bounty of the Pacific Northwest — in particular, its fields and forests. Mexican-born executive chef Hector Laguna, whose parents have a farm in Veracruz, conceptualizes his dishes in the reverse order of most chefs, choosing plant-based ingredients and letting them dictate the accompanying proteins. During colder months, pickled and root vegetables may appear alongside dry-aged beef or butter-poached lobster, while spring is sure to see the likes of fava beans and morels sharing plates with local uni or Fraser Valley duck. Availing yourself of the wine and cocktail lists is highly recommended — Botanist’s ambitious beverage programs have been showered with international awards. Try the Raincouver, one of many elaborate “experiential cocktails” — in this case, a pine-scented vodka sour topped with an edible cloud of cherry blossom–infused helium.
Chef Hector Laguna and pastry chef Kate Siegel pour their hearts into their menus. Mijune Pak